A Bright Sunny Morning in Kutch – Witnessing the Beauty of Ajrakh
A bright sunny morning in Kutch. Indigo-dyed fabrics were spread out on the ground in the open fields. Looking at how raw the view looked, I expected something coarse in the making. My imagination was further validated when I learned that every piece of fabric goes through multiple steps of washing, printing, dyeing, boiling, and re-washing to finally become Ajrakh. (We all know how old clothes look like—that's what I imagined.)
But I was amazingly surprised when I looked at the final products – all vibrant, pleasing to the eyes, and soft against the skin. That’s the beauty of crafts.
Contents:
- What is Ajrakh?
- Where is Ajrakh practised predominantly?
- Origin and history
- The meticulous Ajrakh process
- Q&A with an Ajrakh artisan
- Micro-level challenges faced by artisans
- Macro-level challenges faced by the community
What is Ajrakh?
Ajrakh is a unique block-printing craft technique which derives its name from the Arabic word ‘Azrak’ meaning ‘blue’. Local practitioners also associate it with the word “aaj-rakh” (keep it today) because, after each of the sixteen steps, one needs to spread out and dry the fabric.
Where is Ajrakh Practised Predominantly?
Ajrakh is practised mainly in the Kutch district in Gujarat and Barmer in Rajasthan. It is also prevalent in parts of Sindh in Pakistan.
Origin and History
Ajrakh is believed to have existed in the Sindh region since the Indus Valley civilization. It was introduced in India about 400 years ago by the Khatri community, who later settled in the Kutch and Barmer regions. Traditional Ajrakh craftsmen have passed this art down through generations.
The Meticulous Ajrakh Process
Sixteen to twenty-three exhaustive and laborious steps are involved in making Ajrakh. These are broadly categorised into washing, printing, dyeing, and drying—repeated meticulously to achieve the final product.
- Washing: The fabric is first soaked in a natural mordant solution made of myrobalan, which helps absorb dyes.
- Resist Printing: A paste made of clay, gum, and lime is used to block specific areas, creating intricate patterns.
- Dyeing: The fabric is dyed using natural plant and vegetable dyes.
- Layering: The resist paste is washed off and the fabric is reprinted with another resist and dyed in a different colour.
- Final Wash & Drying: This cycle is repeated several times to build layers of patterns and colours. The entire process may take weeks or even months, depending on the complexity.
Sneak Peek into the Life of an Ajrakh Artisan – Micro and Macro Challenges
Despite reading numerous articles and watching videos, we felt something was missing—no one talked about the real life and struggles of the artisan. So, we met an artisan from the Khatri community in Kutch and had an insightful conversation.
The Q&A – Knowing the Unknown About Ajrakh
Q1. Has there been any change or optimization in the Ajrakh process over time?
This process has remained unchanged for generations. Any step removed compromises the quality.
Q2. Any technological developments in the process?
Not in the authentic process. But yes, screen-printing and digital-printing mimic Ajrakh designs today.
Q3. What are some micro-level challenges faced by an artisan?
“I enjoy doing what I do,” he said. But eventually he shared:
- No fans or air conditioners: Essential colors dry too quickly with fans, but the heat (~44-50°C) is intense.
- Limited direct consumer reach: Mostly sold via exhibitions.
- Unfair competition: Artisan communities often compete unethically.
- Rain dependency: Sun-drying is a must; unexpected rains delay production.
Q4. What are macro-level challenges today?
- Water shortage: Crucial for dyeing. Available water is often saline or iron-rich, unsuitable for natural dyes.
- Cost of wells: Digging new borewells is expensive and not always successful.
- Government neglect: Lack of clean water access and recycling projects.
- Urban migration: Younger generations are moving to cities due to these issues, impacting the continuity of the craft.
Q5. Can Ajrakh be made using only natural dyes?
Ajrakh can be made with both natural and synthetic dyes, but traditionally it uses natural dyes.
Q6. How much effort does it take to print a saree?
- One block = 6" x 6"
- 1 meter = ~50 stamps per block
- 4 blocks per design = 200 stamps per meter
- 6.3 meter saree = 1,260 stamps in total
Reflections from Our Visit
Our visit to the Ajrakh artisans in Gujarat was a deeply humbling experience. It gave us insight into the incredible skill and dedication that goes into every hand-printed piece. We were amazed by the passion and resilience of the artisans who continue to uphold this rich, generational craft.
It was inspiring to see how each artisan brings their own personal style while staying rooted in tradition. We hope this post has sparked your interest in the world of Ajrakh and given you a reason to appreciate handmade crafts even more.
